Dark wooden park bench with a decorative cast iron frame inscribed "București" and a bird with open wings, surrounded by fallen yellow and brown autumn leaves, with a green garden in the background.

Bucharest: Our Last Trip of 2017

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This was our last trip of 2017. And considering we’re now in 2026… yes, this post has been waiting a very long time to be finished. But if I truly want to return to this blog, I need to pick it up again — and this feels like the perfect place to start. Our last five days of freedom that year.

It was also my first Eastern European country, and it left a bigger mark on me than I expected.

First Impressions

I don’t even know where to begin. Bucharest is so different from the Europe I “knew,” the Europe I was used to — yet strangely familiar in certain ways. I could recognise bits and pieces of other countries in Bucharest, but with its own unique personality.

The Trip

We flew with TAP in November 2017. The flight cost around €135 per person and took roughly four hours. We flew overnight and arrived at 5 a.m., exhausted but excited.

We stayed in a central apartment booked through Airbnb — still one of the safest and most affordable options, in my opinion.

To get there, we took a taxi from the airport. And here comes the less pleasant part: we were scammed twice. Nothing dramatic, because the currency was very low at the time, but still… unnecessary.

If you’re going now, I recommend Uber. We tried it too, and it was perfect — no surprises, no tricks. And yes, leave a tip. You’ll make friends instantly.

Exploring the City in 3 Days

Bucharest is easy to explore in three days. The city centre has beautiful buildings and a strong French influence, which earned it the nickname “Little Paris of the East.”

Places worth visiting:

  • Palace of the Parliament — massive, imposing, almost surreal.
  • Old Town (Centru Vechi) — narrow streets, cafés, restaurants and 18th–19th century architecture.
  • Cărturești Carousel Bookstore — one of the most beautiful in Europe. A dream for book lovers.

Parks That Won Me Over

I love cities with green spaces — and Bucharest has some truly special ones.

  • Cismigiu Park — perfect for slowing down and breathing.
  • Izvor Park — known as the most pet‑friendly park in the city. We walked there for ages, admiring the dogs and their owners as if we were locals.
Tilted polaroid-style photograph of the Romanian Athenaeum in Bucharest seen in backlight at dusk, with the dome and neoclassical facade in golden silhouette against a blue sky with clouds and visible electric wires.
The Romanian Athenaeum at sunset — when the light turns a monument into a work of art.
Tilted polaroid photograph of an art nouveau building with a dark slate conical tower, partially hidden by leafless trees with some yellow autumn leaves, against a blue sky with clouds.
Among the bare trees of autumn, Bucharest reveals its most mysterious and unexpected architecture.
Polaroid photograph of a Romanian orthodox church in red brick with an octagonal tower and decorative arches in a yellowish-white style, framed between modern white buildings, against an intense blue sky.
A red brick orthodox church wedged between modern buildings — the contrast that defines Bucharest.
Dark wooden park bench with a decorative cast iron frame inscribed "București" and a bird with open wings, surrounded by fallen yellow and brown autumn leaves, with a green garden in the background.
A bench with the city’s name, autumn leaves on the ground and green everywhere — Bucharest at its best time of year.

Where (and What) to Eat

We always try local food wherever we go.

Taverna Covaci

Packed restaurant, live music, traditional décor. It may not have the best reviews, but we loved the experience — good food and very kind staff, even without speaking English.

Mara Mura

A French‑inspired pastry shop. And when I say I loved it… I really loved it. Impossible to choose just one thing. We left full and smiling.

White plate with two papanași (Romanian fried cheese doughnuts) covered in whipped cream and dark cherry jam, with icing sugar-dusted balls on top and scattered dried dark fruit, with fork and knife.
Papanași with cream and vișine jam — Romania’s most iconic dessert, served exactly as it should be.
Red clay bowl with mămăligă (polenta) in yellow, pieces of roast pork and varză acră (Romanian sauerkraut), on a dark restaurant table, with a faceted glass beer mug in the background.
Mămăligă, roast meat and varză acră — the dish that warms the soul on a cold Bucharest night.
Exterior facade of the Mara Mura patisserie in Bucharest, with a burgundy cursive sign on pale yellow, painted wooden shopfronts, glass door, interior decoration with red lanterns and tropical plants, and a terrace with white wrought iron chairs and tables with blankets.
Mara Mura on the outside is just as charming as inside — a must-stop in Bucharest for anyone with a sweet tooth.
White plate with Paul logo with an open mushroom and cheese omelette, green lettuce salad, baguette slice, half an orange, on a wooden tray with a cappuccino in a Paul cup, croissant and napkin alongside.
Breakfast at Paul in Bucharest — because some mornings call for a mushroom omelette and a cappuccino.
Tilted polaroid photograph of two black slate trays with chocolate éclairs with glossy coating and a chocolate chip, and a white espresso cup inscribed "Chocolat" on a slate tray, on a light wooden table.
A chocolate éclair and an espresso at Chocolat — the combination that makes any afternoon in Bucharest a good one.

Beyond Bucharest: Castles & Mountains

If you visit Romania, don’t miss:

Bran Castle (Dracula’s Castle)

A national monument and a historical icon. We went by train and stopped along the way to visit Peleș Castle. Unfortunately, it was closed for filming, but the walk was beautiful and worth it.

Brașov

A charming town. And home to the most beautiful shop window of the trip: Gigi Crovigi. Even without being hungry, I dragged my husband inside — and thank goodness I did. We bought a few treats for later, and they were absolutely worth it.

Facade of Sinaia train station with "SINAIA" sign in white letters on a blue background with the CFR logo and Romanian flag, large concrete arched window, old dark wooden doors and stone pavement.
Sinaia, next stop — the royal city in the Carpathians begins here, at this station steeped in history.
Black and white tilted polaroid photograph of the inner courtyard of Bran Castle in Romania, with a scale-tiled conical slate tower, wooden walkways, overlapping rooftops and vegetation, against a white sky.
Bran Castle from the inside — towers, walkways and centuries of history in a black and white photograph.
Interior of a Bucharest covrigărie (pretzel bakery) with a "gigi covrice tradiționale" sign in black and orange, a cutting machine in the foreground, raw pretzels on the counter, work utensils and vintage photographs on yellow walls.
where covrigi are still made by hand, as they always have been. A Bucharest classic not to be missed.
Tilted polaroid photograph of the interior vestibule of the Romanian Athenaeum in Bucharest, with a dark carved wooden portal under an arch with a fresco of a female figure, a wall decorated with green and beige painted plant motifs and a golden lattice wrought iron window.
Inside the Romanian Athenaeum — where every detail is a work of art and time seems to have stood still.
Black and white polaroid photograph of a church tower with a Roman numeral clock face, arched windows and a pointed spire, framed between two white Soviet apartment blocks, against a grey sky.
A clock tower between Soviet blocks — time and history share the same space in Bucharest.

Obor Market: The Heart of the City

I love visiting local markets — it’s where you truly feel the soul of a place. Obor Market (Piața Obor) is huge, vibrant and full of life. It reminded me of MARL in Lisbon.

You’ll find everything: fruit, vegetables, meat, cheese, spices, fish (still alive!), and more. It’s an authentic, immersive experience and a must‑visit.

A Week to Remember

It was a fantastic week. If I could go back, I’d make more use of public transport — especially the train, which was affordable and allowed you to hop off in several towns with the same ticket.

But that’s what holidays are: we do our best, and save the rest for next time.

Aerial view of a covered Bucharest market with colourful fruit and vegetable stalls — red tomatoes, orange carrots, green lettuces, yellow fruit — and winter-coated shoppers moving between the aisles.
Bucharest’s market seen from above — an explosion of colour in the middle of winter.
Exterior facade of the Mara Mura patisserie in Bucharest, with a burgundy cursive sign on pale yellow, painted wooden shopfronts, glass door, interior decoration with red lanterns and tropical plants, and a terrace with white wrought iron chairs and tables with blankets.
Mara Mura on the outside is just as charming as inside — a must-stop in Bucharest for anyone with a sweet tooth.
Table at Mara Mura patisserie with a choux bun filled with cream and strawberries on a white plate with red fork and knife, two espressos in turquoise and orange cups, a chocolate brownie in the background, a floral sugar bowl and napkins, with the Mara Mura branded paper tablecloth visible.
A strawberry and cream choux at Mara Mura — because Bucharest has patisseries that deserve a mandatory stop.

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